Varanasi, rickshaw driver

This is one of my rickshaw drivers in Varanasi.
He picked me up at the train station where I went to see about booking a train for Ajmer when i get back to Delhi because the camel fair in Pushkar is happening starting November 18 and i don't fly to NYC until the 22nd.
There is no car traffic in the old city and things were even more closed because of the Navratri celebrations which culminated in the fantastic Durga Puja festivites on Sunday night which I saw from atop the Zee restaurant in the town Square, Boom boxes blaring and oceans of boys dancing in joy.
This fellows' teeth were completely covered in a film of brown from the betel nuts that they chew here. He was the father of five. First, he took me to a police station near the ghat and then to the central headquartes of the police. There I filled out a report about the dissappearance of my passport. [I had written "Stolen passport" buy was told to emend it to "Missing passport"].This is an essential element in the paperocracy here, so I am indebted to the travel officer at the train station of Varanasi [mentionred for his helpfulness in Lonely Plaqet] for insisting that I get that done. The police were minimally equipped with English, but helpful and ready to certify the report that I wrote up with a stamp and a signature. I gave him 100 ruppees and then after he brought me back to the Ghat [embarcadero of the Ganges] another 100. Just ovew five dollars, The average wage in India daily is 50 rupees, a
little more than a dollar.